Discover Zanzibar EAST of Stone Town

The spice farm tour is highly recommended. They are only about 15km east of Stone Town. If you take the road to Mwera, turn left at the petrol station of Mwera. There are several spice farms to choose from, please check Tripadvisor for current reviews. You will walk through the spice farm with a guide who points out the plants, shrubs and trees of cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, turmeric, black pepper, vanilla, nutmeg, lemon grass and all kinds of natural flavors and scents that everyone adores! You must try out the lipstick fruit, see photo below.

Spice Farm – the liptick fruit

spice tour

IN CASE YOU USE A TOUR OPERATOR: You will most probably be told that everything is included in the price, such as entrance fee, tour guides, transport, and possibly traditional lunch. I heard from different tour guides that it is quite common that the tour operators often “forget” to pay the tour guides, even when the tour guides remind them that they need to get their well earned money! That’s why they have to ask for a tip hoping to at least get some money. The tour guides are freelance, they are not employed by the spice farm. The tour takes about 2 hours, one hour longer if you booked a lunch. Often the tour guides go home after a long day’s work with no earnings at all because the tourists of course believe that they already paid for their service.

If you didn’t rent a car you can easily organize your own spice tour trip, it will work out cheaper too. Just negotiate with a local taxi driver the fee for bringing you to the spice farm and back. Check google maps to get an idea of the distance from your hotel.

The entrance fee to the spice farm is usually $10 per person. The tour guide should get $8-10. He has two assistants: one guy climbs up a palm tree to get coconuts, 2nd guy brings fruit and berries, makes hats etc of palm leaves (great gifts to bring home with), provides fruit to taste; they should get $3-5 each. Do your maths and then decide what’s the best option for you.

On your drive back to Mwera, do visit ZAASO, they are a short distance south of Tangawizi spice farm. This is the only animal treatment centre on the island with a qualified vet, which is funded entirely through donations, they don’t get any support from the government. Check Google Maps and look out for the small ZAASO sign on the roadside. They have cows, donkeys, horses, dogs and cats and anything else that needs care or a shelter.

They now also offer an exciting forest horse ride.  Trips are taken in the mornings and afternoons when it isn’t that hot. The horse riding trip takes an hour or so and costs US$ 45 per person. You will be guided by a professional who knows the horses and the area like the back of her hand. All gear is available.
The most important thing: You will have a great time AND support their amazing work: All proceeds go directly to Zaaso which will benefit all the animals in need of treatment and care.
For directions and bookings: zaasokianga@hotmail.co.uk or call +255777842823

ZAASO horse trip through forest

Now carry on towards Mweru. Turn left at the t-junction and stay on this road for about 8 km. As you can see you are now in a very fertile area, it gets the most rainfalls on Zanzibar. Here you get the freshest fruit on the island. I usually stock up at the roadside stalls in Dunga, just before the street bumps.

When you get to the t-junction at Dunga, turn right. Shortly afterwards, stay left and ignore the turnoff towards Tunguu, you are now heading towrds Chwaka Bay. After about 10 km you get to Jendele. A few km further is the area of the Ufufuma Forest Conservation Area with its spirit caves. This is a protected area that you can only visit by prior booking.

The Ufufuma Forest is a unique and little known attraction off the beaten track. You have the rare opportunity to explore the natural forest and its three sacred caves. This is also the area where the Zanzibar Leopard was last seen. Evidence of footprints and droppings where last found in the early 90s. Sadly, it is presumed that the Zanzibar Leopard is now extinct. If you are lucky you will see a dik-dik, a tiny Zanzibar antelope of only about 30cm tall. There will be a few Red Colobus monkeys playing in the trees and I’ve seen the most beautiful butterflies there.

I went on a tour with Mr. Makame, the son of Mr. Mustafa Makame, the founder of the Ufufuma Forest Conservation Tourism Project, a NGO for the protection and preservation of the history and culture of this area. Mustafa and other villagers asked the government many years ago that the inhabitants of the Ufufuma forest are granted ownership of the area in order to protect it from future development. Their request was successful. Tourists are very welcome to visit the area. Any income goes straight to the inhabitants but unfortunately it is not enough to stop them from cutting down trees for firewood.

Makame explained that each of the three caves are inhabited by a spirit (shetani). The caves are under the care of the local healer (medicine man) who needs to be asked for permission to visit the caves. The caves are used for traditional healing ceremonies and for worshipping. The locals who go to the healer for their ailments will first be given natural medicines. If all these healing efforts fail, the healer takes the patient to the caves to ask the residing shetani to assist. They start at the first cave, if the shetani cannot help, they proceed to the second cave. Before the third cave is entered special ceremonies must be performed and thereafter all participants move into this cave where the most powerful shetani resides.

We walked a while through the forest and some open ground and then approached the first cave. It is accessed via a short rocky path – rather wear some good sandals or shoes, flip flops are not suitable. Sets of white and red pieces of cloth hang from the outer edge of the small cave, as a symbol of peace and love. You will see these red and white cloths at the other two caves too. At the top of the path is a small fire place – it is lit in case the cave is occupied for healing as a “don’t disturb” sign.

The second cave is only a short distance away and has a steeper rocky access path than the first cave. This cave is larger than then previous cave and has two sections: The first area is for healing or worshipping, the second larger area is accessed through a quite narrow and low passage. It is used as a resting area since it is an amazingly cool space as if it was air-conditioned.

A further walk past a beautiful tall “silky cotton tree” – also on the photo collage below – leads to the third and final cave. This is a cave that is very deep and in my opinion very difficult to access. I saw quite a few bats flying in the cave which are said to protect the cave and also act as messengers for communications of the “King” (most important and powerful of the shetani) to other shetani. I did not explore that cave.

This is definitely a worthy experience, very much off the beaten track. The entrance fee is US$ 10 per person which goes straight towards the preservation of this area. The tip for the tour guide is extra. If required they can also organize transport for you.

For bookings please contact Mr. Makame on +255776664113 (also whatsapp) or via email contact.epuje@gmail.com

Ufufuma Forest and Spirit Caves

After this you can carry on your trip to the north east coast via Chwaka Bay, Uroa and Pongwe.

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